Blue Mountains

Explorer’s Tree to Cox’s River, return

The start

The view west

Cox’s River

Date: Sunday 28 October 2017

Weather: Hot and still, maximum 30 degrees C. An occasional breeze on the ridge tops, but humid in the doldrums.

Access: Kerry gave us a lift to and fro, bless her heart! It’s a bit difficult to access this walk if you don’t have a car, and we we don’t. Generally speaking, I don’t miss owning a car at all. I’ve considered taking my mountain bike on the train to ride to these out of town starts, which would be do-able but it would be a bit more of a rigmarole. , and it would make a long day longer still.

Duration: Ten hours, including morning tea, lunch and afternoon tea. About 32 km.

Who: Peter, Diana, Kerry, Joe, Pete, Vicki and Britta. All except Peter and Diana were doing this as training for a 12 day trek in Nepal. Peter and Di are not all sure why they were doing it!

Track: There’s an 800 metre undulating descent to the stairs down the face of the escarpment, all 1000 of them! (Though I may have lost count). There seem to have been many more stairs climbing back out at the end of the day!

From Nellie’s Glen, the track wanders for a couple of kilometres, through pleasantly damp, shady bush to the floor of the valley, then follows a dirt road for about three kilometres through farm country. This part of the track has been recently replanted with beautiful flowering natives. I especially liked the expansive ground cover Grevillea and the Isopogons. There were also boronia, bacon-and-egg and a few lovely, tiny yellow orchids.

We then turned off the road and traversed open, rolling, hilly farmland, crossing on stiles over several boundary fences, before crossing a bitumen road at the 8 km mark, where we had morning tea.

From there, the track is still pretty exposed for the next few kilometres, tending generally downhill, until it skirts a creek leading down to the Cox’s River. For the last three kilometres or so, the sound of river rapids can be heard and occasional glimpses of this delightful river are to be had.

Finally, we emerged, after 16 km, at a swing bridge, which we felt obliged to traverse, one at a time, and scrambled down to the rocky river edge for lunch.

The journey back was, not surprisingly, uphill pretty much all the way, and the heat had become a bit oppressive. Despite carrying 3 litres of water each, we all ran out. Ascending the stairs at the end proved not quite as difficult as we had recalled, but we stopped frequently and were glad to have it over.

Comments: Kerry is an excellent and experienced walk leader (and she also knows the best places to go for breakfast and dinner, before and after the walk!) Our other companions were new acquaintances, with whom we hope to share lots of future walks.

It was the sort of weather in which we expected to see a snake (and hence carried snake bandages). Lo and behold, on the way out we came across a small tiger snake which had been killed by a kookaburra and on the way back Diana nearly stepped on a brown snake.! He didn’t seem particularly perturbed, but it’s always a bit of a worry getting too close to such a potentially deadly creature!

This walk is a very good workout, and two days later, writing this, my legs are still aching, though that may have something to do with being of advanced age.

Lunch at Cox’s River

Kerry

Lunch

Tiger snake killed by kookaburra

Diana

Unknown tree blossom

Lizard

Skink

Swing Bridge

Brown snake

Heading home

Cox’s River

Porter’s Pass, Colliers’ Causeway

Date: Saturday 22 July 2017

Weather: A crisp, clear day, with not a wisp of cloud . The overnight minimum had been minus 3 degrees Celsius, and it was still only 6 degrees when our train arrived at 10.30 am. By midday the temperature had got up to 12 or 13.

Access: We caught the 8.18 train to Blackheath from Central Station, which takes about 2 hours 15 min. On the way home, we could have just made the 2.14pm train back to Sydney, but opted for the 3.14pm, to allow time to have a beer and a pie in Blackheath and enjoy the mountain air. Getting to Central Station early is a good idea, to be sure of a seat. Coming home, there’s not much of a problem getting a seat at Blackheath, but it’s standing room only further down the mountain. Our down-train was packed with Sydney Swans football fans.

We repeated the walk we’d done in May last year, starting at the end of Shipley Road, but left out Fort Rock at the end.

Duration: Three hours, including a morning tea break.

Who: Peter, Diana, Christine, Nancy, Julian, Anne-Marie

Track: The track was crowded with rock climbers along Wall’s Ledge, near the top of the ridge, and this section of the track has been extensively rebuilt with shaped sandstone. The further we descended, though, the more of a scramble it became, with plenty of muddy sections to boot, just from run-off down the mountain, not from rain. In a shady grotto not far into the walk, the hanging ferns were encrusted with ice. It would have been surreally beautiful, had we been first down the mountain, but most of the icicles within reach had been destroyed by excited children by the time we got there.

Comments: A beautiful, pleasantly strenuous walk, well worth having revisited!

Rare Blue Mountains Crimson Frog

Little Zig Zag and Wilson’s Glen

Date: Sunday 5th March 2017

Weather: Overcast, warm (after heavy rain).

Access: We drove to Mount Victoria, but this walk is one which is easily accessible by train. After an early start, we had breakfast at the rather wonderful Anonymous Cafe, near the train station. The track begins at the end of Kanimbla Valley Way, which is an easy walk from the station (or cafe).

Duration: 2 hours

Who: Peter, Diana, Julian, Nancy

Track: This is a loop walk, starting and finishing at Pulpit Rock, a short stroll below the end of the road. Aptly named as it may be, note that this is not the more famous Pulpit Rock near Govett’s Leap.

The Little Zig Zag track, originally a bridle path, descends to the left. After about half a kilometre, follow the signposted path up to the Bushrangers’ Cave, which may, in fact, have been used by escaped convicts or bushrangers 200 years ago.

The track continues to descend in a fairly leisurely fashion through a woodland largely composed of eucalypts and banksias. At the bottom this gives way to lush ferns, bracken, and acacias. There are some splendid tree ferns, and not a few leeches.

After ascending back to the base of the cliff-face, a side path to the right leads, 100 metres or so along, to a slender waterfall plummeting through a cleft. Judging, however, from the spectacular erosion of the rock wall, there must at some time have been a torrent erupting at this point. Return to the T-intersection and continue up the face of the escarpment back to Pulpit Rock.

Comments: Considering the easy accessibility of this walk and the fact that it’s not particularly difficult, it seemed to us to be little travelled. The views out over the lush, green Kanimbla Valley, offered at every turn are quite inspiring! After two hours of moderate exertion, we found ourselves looking forward to another round of coffee and a bite to eat, back in town.

Mount Banks, Banks Wall

Julian and Nancy

Fire trail

Ferny grotto Mount Banks

Escarpment edge Banks Wall

Grose Valley

Banks Wall

Diana, julian, Nancy

Grose Valley

Mount Banks from south

Serious bull-ant

micro-flora

Julian and Nancy

Grose Valley

Lunch spot

David Crevasse

Caterpillar orgy

Banksia

Old picnic table, Mount Banks

Peter

Summit

Julian

Nancy

Burnt hakea

Date: Sunday May 8 2016

Weather: Rain was forecast, but we only had a few spots during the actual walk. Being overcast made for pleasant walking. We realised how lucky we’d been, when it rained all the way home. We chose to walk from the Bell’s Line of Road, because Sydney was smothered in smoke haze from hazard reduction burns around the townships along the Great Western Highway. We were fortunate again, in that a north-westerly wind blew the smoke away and allowed us magnificent panoramic views of the Grose Valley.

Access: There’s no option but to drive to do this walk. Head out of Sydney through Richmond, and pick up the Bell’s Line of Road. The Blue Mountains Botanic Gardens, at Mount Tomah are about 40km out of Richmond, and the turn-off to Mount Banks is 9km past there. Follow the gravel road for about a kilometre to the parking area. It’s a bit bumpy, but firm and navigable by normal passenger cars.

Duration: Four hours, including picnic lunch, lots of oohing and aahing over the magnificent vistas and plenty of selfies.

Who: Peter, Diana, Julian, Nancy

Track: From the car park, you can go straight ahead, along the ridge up to the summit of Mount Banks, or you can go left along the fire trail, that skirts around Mount Banks, and proceeds out to Banks Wall. We chose the latter, which made for easy walking on the way out, and after 4.5km found ourselves teetering on the edge of Banks Wall, peering into the vastness of the Grose Valley, carpeted by a wilderness of forest, with meandering streams at its base.

We continued along the fire trail, until it petered out on the lip of David Crevasse, where we sat on a little promontory and ate our picnic lunch. I’m informed by our friend, Roger, who’s knowledgeable about these things, that it’s possible to descend the crevasse to the valley floor, but I find that prospect rather intimidating.

On the way back we took the marked left turn off the fire trail to huff and puff our way to the summit of Mount Banks. This track was harder going, steep, narrow and a bit overgrown, with occasional fallen trees to negotiate. We felt a certain sense of accomplishment in reaching the top, though the view is largely obscured by trees. We then descended, steeply at first, down a slippery path on the north side, towards the parking area. The last part of the walk, along the ridge, with beautiful views west into the valley ensured a very satisfying finish to a splendid walk.

Comments: We started off thinking it was a bit inauthentic to be marching along a broad fire trail, but the going wasn’t all that easy, with loose rock underfoot and lots of ups and downs. The further we went, though, the better it got, as we wended our way under high rock walls, out towards the edge of the escarpment. Looking out from Banks Wall over the majestic wilderness of the Grose Valley is just breathtaking.

The best thing about the walk was that we didn’t see another soul all day, which made the isolation all the more splendid, and, of course, the splendour all the more isolated.

Scrambling up the summit of Mount Banks satisfied our inner masochist, and left us feeling we’d had a proper bush walk after all!

Conveniently, it was just a short hop down the road to Mount Tomah for coffee and angel cake, then a wind-down stroll through the magnificent gardens.

Porters Pass, Collier’s Causeway

Diana and Christine

Eastern escarpment

Banksia

From Collier’s Causeway

Porter’s Pass

Overhanging rock wall

See-through tree

Moss

Climbing to Burton Street

Escarpment

Ferny grotto

Forested valley

Buttress in Kanimbla Valley

Diana. A well-earned rest.

Megalong valley

Stream on Bundarra Street exit

Amanita muscaria

Megalong Valley

Track profile

Date: Sunday 1 May 2016

Weather: It had rained earlier in the morning, but by the time we started, at 10am, it was fine and mild. The track, however, was muddy in places. By the time we emerged at the top, there was a stiff westerly breeze, swirling the fallen autumn leaves around us.

Access: As we generally try to do, we used public transport, travelling by train from Central Station to Blackheath, a very pleasant way to pass a couple of hours, chatting, admiring the scenery, doing the crossword or reading. On the return journey, of course, after a strenuous walk, you can snooze. No road rage, no risk of breaking down or crashing your car (we don’t actually have one), so quick and so cheap!

From Blackheath Station head south along Station Street, then right onto Shipley Road. After about 800 metres turn right again onto Centennial Glen Road. The track begins at the end of Centennial Glen Road, on the left, behind a locked gate. There’s car parking for those who drive.

You can complete the circuit walk, back to your car or, if travelling by train, you can take a pleasant shortcut through the bush from Fort Rock, up towards Blackheath Station, via Bundarra Street. By so doing, though, you miss out on walking through Centennial Glen.

Duration: Three hours, with frequent stops to admire and photograph the ever-changing views.

Who: Peter, Diana, Christine.

Track: At first the track meanders southward along the ridge, through shrubby heath, with spectacular views of the Megalong Valley then, looking southward, of the eastern escarpment, before dropping down to the left.

You’ll pass a little creek and a waterfall, to find yourself then on Collier’s Causeway. This takes you for about a kilometre below steep rock walls on your right, a favourite place for rock climbers, and with the Kanimbla Valley on your left.

The track rises and falls at intervals, then, at Porter’s Pass, drops steeply down rough-hewn staircases, skirting a waterfall, before climbing steeply upwards again. After another steep descent and climb, it passes through a rugged, ferny, forested valley, before continuing the long ascent to the Burton Street side-trail (by which, if you preferred, you could enter and leave the circuit).

When you reach Burton street, take the fire trail immediately off to your right. Turn left onto Cecil Road, then right onto Kanimbla Road. At the entrance to the Gateway Christian Community School, continue along the fire trail to the left of the gates to Fort Rock.

We departed the circuit here and took the track up to the Bundarra Street exit, towards Blackheath Station. Otherwise, head down to your right, down some stairs to Centennial Glen, and on to the starting point at Centennial Glen Road.

Comments: This track is one of the oldest walks in the Blue Mountains, dating back to 1888, and it’s certainly one of the most satisfying, picturesque walks I’ve ever done. It’s quite strenuous, so not for beginners or young children. We could have done the walk considerably more quickly, but for being constantly awestruck by rounding a bend to discover yet another delightful vista, a new botanical delight, or just one more pleasant place to pause and enjoy the ambience.

I highly recommend the pies at the bakery, just across the highway after you cross the railway lines on Bundarra Street, and the coffee at Anonymous Cafe was very good.

We’ll most certainly go back to do this walk again in the spring, and take in Centennial Glen next time.

Florabella Pass

Monolith

Descent from Warrimoo

Florabella Creek

Sandstone window

Looking down to Glenwood Creek

Leaning angophora

Rock wall near Blaxland

Date: 25th April 2016

Track: A well made track, rocky, with lots of stairs. It passes through Florabella Pass, heading east along Florabella creek, which it crosses twice. Florabella Creek later meets Glenbrook Creek, which can only be accessed, however, by scrambling up and down a steep side track. If you do so, there are some pretty swimming-holes. Otherwise continue along the left bank of Glenbrook Creek, under the brow of the ridge, until you reach the Ross Crescent exit up to Blaxland. Follow Ross Crescent and Taringha St to the highway and turn right towards the shopping centre and railway station.

Weather: A fine, mild autumn day.

Access: By far the best way to get to and fro is by train to Warimoo Station, then train back to Sydney from Blaxland Station. Cross the highway on the overpass from Warimoo Station and turn right along the highway, then left into The Boulevarde. Turn right into Arthur St, then first left into Florabella St. The track begins with a steep descent at the end of Florabella St, down to Florabella Creek.

Who: Peter, Diana, Christine.

Duration: Two and a half hours, including getting a bit lost temporarily and several breaks to just sit and enjoy the view. We started at 8.15am, so couldn’t justify a lunch break, but if you started later, there are several nice spots for a picnic.

Comments: Not a difficult walk, if you don’t mind stairs. Fairly well trodden (we bumped into people walking dogs and families with young children at the Blaxland end). The track passes through a very picturesque valley, with lots of weather-sculpted sandstone overhangs on the side of the track that borders civilisation. Across the valley rise steep conical hills with rugged rocky battlements protruding between tall eucalypts. There are plenty of magnificent angophoras and abundant banksias. Autumn’s not the best time to see flowers, but we passed some nice Lambertias, hakeas and acacias. Sadly, from an aesthetic point of view, unbeknown to us, there had been a recent prescribed burn along the town side of the track, so we tended to walk looking to the right. The burn, however, did reveal the rock formations we were passing under to advantage. We’d planned to have a leisurely lunch in Blaxland before catching the train back, but were well advised by a Blaxland local to go one stop down the line to Glenbrook for some better fare.

Grose Valley: Pierce’s Pass to the Pinnacles

Grose Valley

Date: Saturday 28th November

Track: Track head off Bell’s line of Road near Rigby Hill. A gentle stroll to and from Rigby Hill. Down Pierce’s Pass, (pretty steep), then along Hungerford’s track, following the Grose River, to Bluegum Forest. Hungerford’s track is an amazing feat, originally built by two men nearly a century ago, and still in good condition, albeit now modified and maintained by National Parks. The trail diverges off Hungerford’s track to follow the river down to Bluegum Forest. Very pretty but less well formed. Ascent via Du Faur Buttress (horribly steep, with big jump-ups) and Railway Steps to Lockley’s Pylon, then across Lygon Plateau (beautiful heath) to the Pinnacles. All up, (and down), about 16 kilometres.

Weather: Very misty and cool at the start, so we were unable to see the promised magnificent view from Rigby Hill. It warmed up, but stayed humid along the valley and started to rain not long after lunch in the Bluegum Forest. The ascent was in steady rain, and there was a stiff, cold breeze blowing across the plateau at the top, which made for spectacular swirling patterns of mist.

Access: This walk is logistically difficult. The finish point at the Pinnacles is 11km along a rough dirt road from Leura, where one or more cars must be left, before proceeding around to the starting point off Bell’s Line of Road in one or more other cars, depending on the number of walkers. Then, at the end, the car(s) at Pierce’s Pass have to be picked up.

That said, it’s well worth a bit of running around to be able to do a very special walk. We stayed overnight in Katoomba to rendezvous at 6.15 in Leura, but others got out of bed in the wee small hours and drove up from Sydney. If you stay in the mountains the night before, I can recommend the Two Birds IPA and the crocodile pizza at the Railway Bar and Woodfired Pizza in Katoomba!

Who: Peter, Diana, Julian, Roger and Jeff Rigby, David Matheson

Duration: About 8 hours of pretty steady slogging. We weren’t sure how long it would take, and budgeted 9 hours. The pace was comfortable down Pierce’s Pass and Hungerford’s track, just steady along the river to Bluegum Forest, but then, with the rain and poor visibility on the ascent, we pushed reasonably hard. On a fine day it would be nice to allow 10 hours, to enjoy the scenery more. We’ll definitely have to do the walk again sometime!

Comments: Where to start? Roger Rigby organised the walk, and what a privilege and pleasure to have his company, especially seeing that Roger and two friends rediscovered Hungerford’s Track in 1960, having found it marked on a military survey map dated 1938. The track had been long unused and lost to memory. Rigby Hill is named in Roger’s honour. He and brother Jeff have been walking for over fifty years, and have a wealth of knowledge to share.

It was wonderful to be able to pass through some largely unspoiled country, little travelled by day walkers and, even through the filter of fog and cloud, to appreciate its pristine magnificence! The walk was moderately physically challenging, and I had sore, stiff legs for a couple of days afterwards, but then I do admit to being in my sixties.

I was disappointed with not having had my trusty Canon camera (at the repair shop), because the quality of the photos I took on on my much-touted iphone 6S left a lot to be desired.

Rigby Hill

Jeff, Di, Julian

Smoko

First sight of the Grose River

A rocky crossing

Bluegum Forest

Lunch

On the ascent

At Du Faur Buttress

Carlon’s Farm to Splendour Rock return

Date Wednesday 15 April 2015

Weather A fine, cool day until evening, then torrential rain.

Track Vague and difficult to follow. Definitely not for inexperienced hikers!

Access Drive to Carlon’s Farm in the Megalong Valley, via Blackheath.

Who Peter, Kerry, Roger, David

Duration 10 hours walking (more with breaks)

This was the most challenging walk I’ve done in the Blue Mountains. I would not recommend that anyone attempt it without an experienced guide. We lost the track a couple of times but, thanks to Roger’s expertise and local knowledge, we were able to bush-bash our way back on course. There were some very steep ascents and descents, a bit of rock-climbing, and we had to move fairly fast to get it done in daylight. The scenery, however, was spectacular, particularly the view from aptly named Splendour Rock. Magnificent isolation.

On the return journey, the weather began to look very ominous. The last 3 km were on a dirt road fortunately, but the surface was very slippery gravel downhill towards the end, and we were doing it with head-torches.

We got back to the cars just as the heavens opened. Had we not begun driving then, I don’t believe we would have got out of the valley. There was an awe-inspiring display as lightning flashes illuminated the valley walls and torrents of water were pouring down the road. When we reached Blackheath, the highway was running a banker, overflowing the gutters!

Explorer’s Tree to Cox’s River return

Date Wednesday 13 May 2015

Weather Cold, fine.

Track 800 steps at start. Well made, well marked, through bush and open country, along river.

Access Drive to Explorer’s Tree

Who Peter, Di, Kerry, Roger

Duration 10 hours

Comments

This walk follows the first 15 km of the Six Foot Track, so 30 km return trip! We got off to an early start for a long day (and a short winter’s day). The eight hundred steps down to Nellie’s Glen got us warmed up by the bottom of the escarpment. Then followed a gradual bushy descent to the Megalong Valley floor and through farmland for a couple of hours. After that we tracked along above a pretty creek to the Cox’s River, and along the river to the swing bridge, where we had lunch. We kept up a cracking pace on the way back, as the day began to close in and get colder. We were very keen to get back up the stairs from Nellie’s Glen before dark, especially as we had to pick our way through a tree fallen over the stairs near the top.

The temperature had dropped to zero by the time we got back to the start, and on the way home we heard that it was snowing at Blackheath!

Sassafras Gully, Glenbrook Creek, Perch Ponds

Date Friday 13 March

Weather Warm, fine

Track Well made, well marked, damp. Leeches!

Access Train to Springwood, walk 1.2 km to start.

Who Peter, Di

Duration 4h 30m (from station)

Comments

A pleasant ramble, apart from the odd leech. Nice creeks and waterholes. Pretty bush.

Wentworth Falls, Undercliff, National Pass, Overcliff

Date Wednesday, 1 April 2015

Weather Fine and warm

Track Well made and well marked. Long ascents and descents. Enclosed steel ladders to reach Overcliff. Lovely sections along the valley floor.

Access We drove, but you can walk from Wentworth Falls railway station.

Who Peter, Di, Kerry

Duration 6-7 hours

Comments

Kerry organised this to give Di and me a serious workout, in preparation for our trip to Yosemite. It was pretty strenuous, but a beautiful walk.

Six Foot Track

Date Saturday-Sunday 25-26 July 2015

Weather Cold.

Track Well marked and well maintained. Much is a four-wheel drive track. Long climbs. Some steep ascents and descents.

Access Two cars required. Drive to Jenolan Caves, leave one car, return to start at Blackheath.

Who Pete, Di, Kerry, Natalie, David

Duration Two days.

Comments

To do this walk requires a certain amount of planning and organisation. We elected to drive up to Blackheath on Friday afternoon, then to Jenolan Caves to drop off one car, then back to Blackheath to stay the night for an early start on Saturday. At the end of the walk we all crammed into the one vehicle and drove back to the start to pick up the other vehicles. We actually stayed at the Best Western motel in Katoomba, which was comfortable and reasonably priced, but there are other options. The walk starts at the Explorer’s Tree, outside Blackheath.

It’s a 45 kilometre hike, often done over three days, but we did it in two. We opted not to camp overnight, but to stay at the Six Foot Track Lodge, only 16 km into the walk, 1 km past the Cox’s River, which left us with 29 km to cover on the second day. http://www.6fttracklodge.com

The lodge has bunk beds and provides dinner, breakfast and a packed lunch for the next day. Bathing facilities consist of a “donkey” boiler over an open fire and a bucket. Bedding is provided. It’s basic, but comfortable, and a fantastic location. There’s even wine with dinner!

Day 1 began with a steep descent of 800 steps to Nellie’s Glen. This was complicated by two trees having fallen over the stairs in a recent storm! The track was then comfortably undulating, passing through beautiful bush and at other times open paddocks with wonderful views of the escarpment, back towards Katoomba. When we stopped for lunch, we were pleasantly surprised to spy two echidnas, also making lunch plans, which concerned a nearby termite mound! A bit further on we followed a creek which eventually joined the Cox’s River. We crossed the Cox’s River (one at a time) on the swing bridge, and arrived at the lodge in plenty of time to make our beds, get the fire going for a wash and have a pre-dinner glass of wine.

Day 2. We were on the track by 7.30am, and the next 5 hours were basically uphill, with a number of creek crossings. It was rocky and uneven going, hard on the legs. Because it was mid-winter and we didn’t want to run out of light before the very steep descent to Jenolan Caves, we pushed hard, eventually doing the 29 km in 8h 40m. We were also encouraged to move along smartly by the cold. It was certainly around zero when we stopped for lunch, and a passing park ranger had warned us that snow was expected! The scenery was great, however, and we were rather pleased with the pace we maintained.

If, or when we do this walk again, I would be sorely tempted to spend the night after the walk in Caves House, the grand old mock-Tudor hotel at Jenolan Caves. We’ve stayed there before, and it’s wonderful to be in that spectacular, secluded valley in the evening and early morning, when there are no day-trippers around. It would also save driving back to Sydney in the dark after a very hard day’s hike.

Pope’s Glen to Pulpit Rock

Date Sunday 9 August 2015

Weather Fine, cool, gentle breeze.

Track Poorly maintained, rocky, wet, overgrown.

Access Train to Blackheath

Who Pete, Di

Duration 4h 30min including lunch at Pulpit Rock

Comments

The top of the walk isn’t very exciting, but it improves from Boyd’s Beach onwards. The walk along the escarpment to Pulpit Rock has spectacular views. Lots of early spring flowers, especially various banksias, hakeas, acacias, lambertia. Plenty of birds.